Vino on the Brick Walk: Liquid Dessert and Portions for Shrek

When I hear the words "wine bar" or "martini lounge," I envision a room with plush velvet seats, flickering candles and a bar running with sleek marble. And with its swank ambiance, there is probably a smugness that falls from the air like particles of dust, collecting on clienteles' shoulders. The wine list is the show; the food is merely the stage on which the wine acts.

Despite its moniker, Vino on the Brick Walk doesn't conform to my image. It's shaped by a certain rusticity. Pinch-pleated cafe curtains veil portions of the windows, banquettes are upholstered a varying blue and brown, walls fluctuate between a royal cobalt and whitewashed brick.  There is an open kitchen serving as a diversion while you wait for your first round of drinks to finally arrive, and the wines are definitely not showcased.

While the decor is passable, the wine experience falls short of mediocrity. A glass of Cellar 8 Zinfandel arrived to our table on the cusp of its death. There's nothing worse than starting dinner off by toasting a warm glass of vinegar.

Skimming the menu, you'll notice that most of the appetizers fall in the low double-digit range, and from the descriptions, many seem as if they are $3 to $4 overpriced. That is until they arrive. A plate brimming with Prince Edward Isle mussels is the only explanation necessary for the prices: Italian style portions. Momma never lets a guest leave hungry.

The plump mussels allure you with an intoxicating cloud of sea-brine and garlic aromas. They wade in a tide pool of marinara, quartered garlic cloves and a seasoning of white wine. A plate of sauteed broccoli rabe comes entangled with knobs of fennel-scented sausage, malleable white beans and a touch of spice; ciabatta toasts line the plate, happily massaged with fresh garlic.

Entree portions are even more satirical in size, and for a moment I found myself quietly muttering, "Only Shrek could finish this in its entirety." Our salmon filet was one-quarter of the fish's side! Encrusted with walnuts and almonds, atop a knoll of slightly-gummy risotto and sauteed spinach, there was no whitespace on the plate. It was the epitome of Amerian culture: Supersized.

No one really seems to mind the excessive portions; a crack of laughter from two tables down confirms this. They're having a good time. The gentleman drinks his beer while his wife sips on a dry martini. Pearls and all.

More food: Almost half a box of cooked linguini comes tousled with roasted red peppers and arugala. Dressed with a saffron-Parmesan cream, it's reminiscent of mom's doled-out casserole on a chilly December eve; comfort food for a cold stomach.

At this point, you're completely stuffed, pants' button popped, gut let out like it's Thanksgiving in the summer. Consider taking dessert in the form of liquid. The Tiramisu martini is a saccharine concoction of Stoli Vanilla, crème de cacao, Bailey's and Kahlua; a sweet treat and after-dinner buzz shaken into one.

Vino on the Brick Walk

1229 Post Road, Fairfield, CT 06824 (203) 254-1636.

ATMOSPHERE: A cross between a modern trattoria and a diner.

SOUND LEVEL: Like people having fun at a medium-low hum of volume. The occasional martini-sipper bursts out with laughter.

RECOMMENDED DISHES: P.E.I. mussels, broccoli rabe with sausage, Tiramisu martini.

WINE LIST: For a winebar, the selection of wines by the glass ($5.50 to $9) offers little excitement. The bottle selection emphasizes wines from Italy and California. Artisan martinis offer a more interesting alternative.

PRICE RANGE: Appetizers, $4 to $13; pasta, $13 to $19; entrees $16 to $22.

HOURS: Lunch, Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Dinner, Monday through Friday, 4:30 p.m. to 9 p.m., Saturday, 4:30 to 9:30 p.m.

RESERVATIONS: Accepted for parties of five or more Monday through Friday. All reservations accepted on Saturday. Call (203) 254-1636.

CREDIT CARDS: All major cards.